As the industry strives to become more sustainable, vintage clothing is rising to the top of the shopping agenda. “It makes sense,” says Shrimpton Couture’s Cherie Balch, who sees fashion’s current desire for something new from the old as more than a passing fad. As consumers embrace a greener mindset, they have succumbed to the romance of the archival look. “There’s always something special about vintage pieces,” explains Balch, whose clients include Rihanna and Tracee Ellis Ross. “There’s a little bit of magic about them, and you just can’t walk away.”
While the 2000s dominated the retro shopping headlines in 2021, this year people turned to pieces that transcended trends. Investing in purchases is a top priority as fashionistas go out of their way to snap up rare collectibles, exquisite fashion and statement jewelry that can be customized and made even more unique. The most savvy consumers are even paying it forward by purchasing popular jewels from contemporary designers who may one day be compared to John Galliano-era Dior.
The greatest vintage retailers in the globe give their picks for the year’s most unique items from the annals of fashion, or, as Cherie puts it, “the things that if you walk into a modern retail store you just cannot even hope to see on the racks.”
Top Songs of the Mid 2000s
Galliano’s Dior stole hearts last year, but according to Balch, archive hunters are now on the hunt for any classic Dior. Why hold a popularity contest? “I think there’s a real love-hate relationship with modern Dior now. For a lot of people it means going back in time and finding pieces that they loved then and still love,” Cherie explained. At Time’s Up, a Copenhagen department store frequented by Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin, founder Jesper Richardy anticipates a mid-2000s revival of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and Rick Owens, while Roberto Cavalli’s 2000s signature at Depop is chic.
Also keep an eye out for stylish musical chairs. Hattie Hawksworth, editor-in-chief of Farfetch, which runs a successful used car division, commented: “When an iconic designer is away from home, interest only increases as customers want to snap up the designer’s latest collection.” While you can, purchase Daniel Lee’s final creation for Bottega Veneta.
For a reason, classics are referred to be such
Make 2022 the year you carry that luxurious quilting home if you’ve had your eye on a Chanel purse for a very long time. Claudia Ricco, the founder and CEO of Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited, predicts that the double flap bag will soon be priced similarly to the Hermès Kelly after many price rises over the previous 12 months. “Impossible to buy” is another.
Hawksworth says Farfetchers are making excellent use of the e-tailer’s Donate programme, where consumers can sell their gently used items for store credit to help lessen the shock of their expensive archive purchases. She is presently pondering her own Chanel handbag quandary: “classic or statement?” A once-in-a-lifetime buy like Bulgari’s Serpenti watch is presently on Hattie’s own personal wish list. “It’s a cliché, but I really think we’re seeing a return to traditional luxury pieces; those truly indulgent, once-in-a-lifetime purchases,” she adds.
What about the modern classics, though? With a history in luxury vintage and a daughter who is 20 and enamoured with eco-fashion, Ricco is well-positioned to forecast which current designers will endure in a congested industry. “Newer or up-and-coming sustainable brands will definitely become part of the future vintage space [because] younger consumers are buying very differently,” argues Claudia, who is betting on Jacquemus succeeding in the future.
Heavenly couture
Archive enthusiasts who have long enjoyed the excitement of the hunt and that dopamine high when an eBay purchase arrives at their door are transitioning from vintage apparel to the world of couture. “It’s the pinnacle of fashion, and there are still pieces to be found at every budget level if you really hunt,” claims Ricco, noting that Gripoix, YSL, and Chanel are her most frequently requested names. “Holding a piece of history in your hands and appreciating the craftsmanship and quality of build that went into it is absolutely incredible when you do locate them. You are aware that in today’s society, very few individuals have access to what you are holding.
Unique works with cult followings
The term “scarcity” will also catch on in the world of vintage items. Ricco shares that she is looking for one-of-a-kind collectibles by brands like Maison Martin Margiela, Mugler, and Comme Des Garçons, which specialise in unusual fashion-cum-art pieces with cult followings. Sophie Quy, vice president of brands at Threads Styling, reports that the personal shopping platform has seen a sharp increase in clients requesting one-off personalised accessories. There is a chance to find really unique things that will stay in vintage fashion, says Richardy, despite the fact that fashion is typically growing more similar internationally and leaving little place for local firms.
Costume jewelery that draws interest
According to Depop’s O’Donnell, who is always searching for famous pieces like Christian Lacroix and Chanel, “it is well known that jewellery by well-known names tends to best hold and even increase its value.” “Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli has made a huge comeback for bold costume jewellery, so I think we can expect to see the prices increase this year.” Rewind Vintage Affairs Limited specialises in couture jewels from the ’80s and ’90s, while Threads Styling has seen a 1000% surge in demand for bespoke timepieces only in the past year.
